The most slimming way to dress is a “column of color” – one color head to toe – a suit, pantsuit, matched pant and sweater , etc. Colors you wear for this head-to-toe effect need to be about the same color value as your facial color pattern.
“Value” is the light/dark dimension of color. Every face can be described by its relative light/dark characteristics. Here are 4 examples, arranged from darkest to lightest, taking skin, hair and eye colors into consideration:
When you wear a large amount of a color that’s significantly lighter or darker than your own color value, it looks as if your head is floating separate from your body. You want a look that is one unified whole – not a look with a separate head.
The woman below is beautiful, and her white pantsuit is striking. But can you see that “floating head” effect? The black plaid suit is a more uniform look, because its color value matches her own. She could help make the white pantsuit a more integrated look by adding accessories to repeat her hair color through the outfit – shoes, belt, bag and maybe a flower on the lapel.
A closely related concept is value contrast. The step of difference between the lightest (or brightest) color and the darkest color in an outfit should not be greater than the step between the lightest and darkest colors in your face.
Contrast is an attention magnet, so attention goes primarily to the high-contrast part of any visual picture. You want that attention on your face – not your outfit. See how you can’t take your eyes off these black/white print dresses to see the models’ faces? The clothes are wearing the women instead of the other way around.
Although lower contrast is perfectly acceptable, the very best look is a contrast level that matches your own. The colors in the peachy sweater match the model’s hair and skin tones perfectly – although I would probably put the dominant brown stripe someplace other than the hips – wouldn’t you?
If you own print garments that are too high-contrast, consider dyeing them a softer color from your Color Fan. The dark color won’t be changed, but the light one will pick up the new shade, reducing the contrast.
You also create contrast when you combine solid-color garments into outfits. If you typically wear your black pantsuit with a white shirt, try substituting a shell in tan, gray or palest blush pink to soften the contrast. Add a linking accessory to complete the flattering look. Much more about linking accessories in lesson #19.
What outfits with ideal contrast can you build in your wardrobe this week? Next issue we'll explore how to combine your best colors in flattering prints.
